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Into the mist

I don’t want to get up. It’s 3am, and I can see the glitter of stars in the sky and a light frost on the bivvy bag. I was climbing these mountains almost 24 hours straight yesterday. But something...

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The Spear

“You’re kidding, right?” “Nope, there’s no early train, I just called them. Best we can hope for is the 6:24, which puts us in Kamikochi at 8:30″ said the OE. It was going to be tight. The map shows...

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Cold War (or, Just Because You’re Paranoid, Doesn’t Mean The Russians Aren’t...

But can we trust the Soviet? Is he really on our side? He’s a genius, they say, but your neck is on the line and the valley floor glimmers three hundred meters below the tips of those razor-sharp...

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Last days of Rome

Call it what you want. Boredom. Frustration. Fin de siècle ennui. Tokyo is a white hot skillet, a spitting stir fry of twenty million people, and I needed out. The Kamikochi bus terminal at the foot...

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In a universe far, far away…

Wake up, it’s six thirty already. For two months I’d seen nothing but the dance of tiny numbers on a screen, the gasps and shouts of a world so intangible that it scarcely exists from minute to...

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Checking In

Thank you to all those who have sent emails, phoned and left comments on the blog. Both Yuka & I are safe and well, as are all our friends and family. The situation to the north of Tokyo is nothing...

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To Everything A Season

“Many shall be restored that now are fallen and many shall fall that now are in honor” Horace (Ars Poetica) “All is flux, nothing stays still.” Heraclitus . It’s hard to write anything that doesn’t...

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Life on the North Ridge

The old man and I sat on the peak of the Gendarme, watching the early evening clouds boil around the summits of the North Alps. From our seat in the skies, the world below appeared as a sea of white...

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No Ifs, Just Buttresses

We sit on a rocky ledge above the cloud, the icy autumn wind numbing our toes through their thin rock shoes. A line of hikers creep up the valley below and I wonder if they could see us up here, a...

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